Greenock-Creek-releases-first-white-wine-in-decades

Greenock Creek has produced its first white in decades. Grown on the organically farmed Tscharke vineyard in Marananga, fermented in stainless steel on skins and matured on full lees in both stainless steel and clay amphora, the 2024 Grenache Blanc is a great wine. It’s also a clear signal of the Barossa Valley winery’s evolution.

Founded in 1984 by brickie-turned-winemaker Michael Waugh and his wife Annabelle, Greenock Creek shot to stardom after a string of 100-point scores from highly influential US critic Robert Parker in the ’90s and early ’00s. Outside of a handful of chardonnays that featured among the earliest releases, it predominantly produces red wines, with a particular reputation for rich, robust and ageworthy styles. 

Greenock Creek winemaker Alex Peel.

While the introduction of a single white isn’t enough to tip those scales, it’s not the only sign of a change in direction. Ever since he was appointed winemaker by Greenock Creek’s new owners, a group led by Sydney-based entrepreneur Jimmy Chen, who bought the business after the Waughs retired in 2018, Alex Peel has worked to refine and modernise the wines while staying true to the essence of the brand.

When we visited the winery in mid-June, Alex took me, Katrina Butler (Halliday’s head of tasting and general manager) and regional taster Dave Brookes through Greenock Creek’s entire portfolio, including current and upcoming releases, as well as wines still in barrel and some select back vintages.  

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Part of Alex’s strategy is to focus more on the lighter end of the spectrum. As well as the Grenache Blanc – of which the ’25 iteration is richer, with more fruit definition and phenolic grip than its ’24 counterpart – this includes the entry-level Moppa Grenache, the more structured Cornerstone Grenache, the ultra-premium, cellar-door-only Roennfeldt Road Grenache, and the delightfully bright and meaty Mataro. 

Even among the weightier wines, from the Cabernet Sauvignon through the seven-odd shiraz wines, including the Roennfeldt Road and Creek Block flagships, there is elegance and grace in spades. With the wines still made largely to tradition, in basket presses and open-top concrete fermenters, the changes are the result of better vineyard management and site selection, earlier picking, and a barrel renewal program – Alex was particularly excited by a Staggemeyer barrel made from white American oak. 

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Yet, despite these changes and improvements, which are especially evident in the structured ’25s and fragrant ’26s, the wines are still firmly Greenock Creek. 

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