How to find the best quality brandy in Australia: tips from an expert

What is brandy and how is it made?

Unlike whisky, which is made from grains, or rum, which is made from sugar cane, or tequila, from the agave plant, brandy is made from fermented fruit and fruit derivatives. As such, it is one of the most widely produced spirits in the world – especially in grape-growing regions, where winemaking results in leftover fruit material that can be fermented and distilled.

Australia certainly fits the bill for this description, so it should come as no surprise that we produce some exceptional grape brandies and, as Fred Siggins says, "have been doing so for a very long time." St Agnes, based in South Australia, has been making brandy for over a century. So, when it came to learning how to find the best brandies in the country, we went straight to the experts.

Below, we chat to Richard Angove, managing director of St Agnes Distillery, about what makes Australian brandy so unique, and how to find exceptional brandies on the shelves.

Sibling duo Richard and Victoria Angove are joint managing directors of St Agnes Distillery.

H. What makes Australian brandy unique?

RA. Australian brandy is unique due to its premium grape selection, blend of traditional and innovative production techniques, award-winning craftsmanship, distinctive regional characteristics and rising global recognition. These elements combine to create a spirit that is both rich in heritage and forward-thinking in its approach.

At St Agnes Distillery, we use a range of grape varieties for our XO brandies, but focus on colombard as the main base as it creates a delightfully fresh eau de vie.

H. What separates exceptional brandies from good brandies?

RA. Top tier brandy, like St Agnes, is produced using the double-distilled pot still method where the eau de vie flows very slowly from the still. It is a process that cannot and should not be rushed. They are then patiently stored in small oak barrels for an extended period – St Agnes XOs start at 15 years of age and go all the way up to 50 years of age.

H. What do you hope for when looking to the future of brandy in Australia?

RA. We hope to see more of the distilleries currently producing gin, whisky and other spirits to also start laying down some barrels of premium grape spirit to be released as brandy when ready. Australian distilleries are embracing creative freedom in all that they do – just look at the explosion in gin variants – allowing for innovative approaches to brandy production.

This flexibility enables the development of unique expressions that cater to evolving consumer tastes. This blend of heritage and innovation ensures that Australian brandy will continue to captivate enthusiasts both locally and internationally.

Brandy to try: St Agnes Distillery XXO 50 Year Old Exceptional Reserve

At 50 years old, this is, to my knowledge, the oldest Australian spirit ever released, and by a wide margin. The mahogany colour indicates plenty of oak, which pays off on the nose – this is far woodier than the younger releases. Forest floor and an attic full of antique furniture creep out of the glass, and perhaps monsters lurk here. Please don't approach unless you like oak. But there’s Cherry Ripe, too, and that St Agnes creaminess I love. On the palate, it turns out the monster wants to hug you. Sure, it smells of sandalwood and leaf litter, but it’s a soft hug nonetheless, and the tannin on the finish is incredibly creamy, like an excellent cup of black tea rather than a dusty old bit of wood. This is perfectly true to style and an outstanding achievement by any measure. – Fred Siggins, 96 points.

H. How was this brandy made and what makes it so special?

RA. This was distilled between 1970 and 1972 from varieties including doradillo, pedro ximenez, palomino and sultana. Stored in small French oak barrels for 50-plus years with the 'Angels' taking over half of the original contents, resulting in a spirit of intense character and flavour.

RRP: $4800 | stagnesdistillery.com.au | Shop this brandy

 

Top image credit: St Agnes Distillery